Thursday 12 December 2013

L’étranger


You could translate Camus’ delightfully depressing novel the stranger or the foreigner. I do not intend to plunge into depression, but to talk about life as a foreigner abroad.

The first point is the misconception of believing that you know a place after visiting it. As expats, we all know that the only way to truly speak about a place is to live in it.

In good old England, my first foreign country as an expat, I was told that we, the French, were perceived as arrogant, weird and rude. I guess the history between our countries has embedded those thoughts or simply, some arrogant weird and rude French people have left a mark! (Remarkably enough, every visit in Scotland has been most welcoming, from every person met! – history again).

The English textbooks in France had depicted English people with the most elegant “chapeau melon”, gentlemen and ladies walking in canes and speaking the Queen’s English. As I sailed from Calais to Dover, I had it all worked out: England would be a chic place, where my accent would forever disappear and I would experience the culture.

It didn’t quite happen. Some of the best memories after arriving in my new town remain my first attempt at buying a bus ticket (using my best Queen’s accent and vocabulary: “Good day Sir, I wish to purchase a bus ticket going to town and returning”) or the first time someone told me about pigeonholes! I guess, the purpose of this particular story is all about expectations. The expat life is similar to riding the waves: there are downs, low ones, like realising the textbook hasn’t been updated and things aren’t quite as you thought. A little bit like the crystal seller in the alchemist; all his life he desired travelling to Mecca but could never finance his trip. At last, with the protagonist’s help, his dream is at reach and yet, he explains to Santiago that he will not travel to Mecca, fearing that it wouldn’t transcend him as he had hoped and would destroy his dream.

In Turkey, as you walk around, you are labelled with the name “Yabanci”. Nothing offensive, just foreigner! Turkey over exceeded my expectations and that was a strong high point in my expat life.

In Egypt, my expectations were low. Not because of the destination, but because of the path; indeed, the more you travel, you learn adaptability and your expectations lower, to let you embrace your new place. Cairo is what it is, and despite the numerous recent polls on how horrible or nice it is to live here, it really isn’t about the place so much, it is about the people.

I find that international friendships bloom at a dazzling speed and strengthen the same way. In England, Turkey and now Cairo, I have met wonderful people and perhaps it is the context or the state of mind you are in as a foreigner, but the intensity really changes to what it would be like at home. This applies for locals or fellow expats, there is something to it.

Being French, you get all sorts of international clichés: from arrogant, to forever complaining or even strange, and the inevitable assumption that we all come from Paris. The Egyptians people have a strong Francophone heritage; therefore, even if as foreigners you HAVE to make the efforts and learn your host country’s language, for the sake of politeness, it also doesn’t suffice at times (That’s when you throw a French word and it happens to work quite often!).

As teachers, we also are role model, and as a Foreign teacher, you almost become an ambassador. Therefore, consciously or unconsciously, whatever feelings you generate will also impact on your homeland. I don’t know if I have made justice to my country at all times, but I sure try and I feel that travelling has made me even more chauvinistic than before. It isn’t due to the illusion that the grass is always greener back home, but even though you do not live in the country, doesn’t mean that you have given up your identity.

Travelling to a new place abroad also provides you with an opportunity to start afresh, without the burden of past events. Some people remain themselves; others change, for the better or the worst. There are also the people who act abroad as if it didn’t matter, since they are only passing through.

The best example comes from Estonia, where stag parties are soiling the city centers at the week end and where this wonderful, straight to the point sign, was shot:

 
A Romanian friend of mine once said that Egypt was the best expat experience and I can see why. Perhaps it is a result of the political difficulties or simply the people here, but there is a great community, that has accepted the expat life in this climate and is making the most of it, the most I have ever seen anywhere else so far.
Three countries later, it is fair to say that the longer the path, it easier it gets! Yet, it’s not all sparkly and positive, there are several downfalls to being an expat, but let’s save those for another time!