On March 23rd, as some face personal tragedies and others paint their virtual walls with selected colours after new terror attacks, some decided to go to the Bardo Museum in Tunis.
“Bardo”, a name first heard almost one year ago in tragic
circumstances, since the terrorist attack that took place inside the museum,
targeting tourists. At the time, we had accepted our contract a few months
earlier, and resonated to a natural dichotomy - Some, born up in the pondered
North faced it with a pinch of salt, whilst others, spoiled by centuries of
hysteria and emotional heritage, did not deal with it as well.
Instead of going on social networks, vehemently condemning
the Belgian flag and questioning why other colours have been neglected by both news and people on the matrix, it felt as though it was an appropriate day for it, “Bardo” must
be seen today, with most of the people I love most.
As you arrive, you will see the huge white rectangular
building, heavily guarded. Once you step in, a metal detector will greet you
inside and his rolling companion will carefully scan your bags. As you pay for
a ticket for the mere price of 8 Tunisian Dinar if you are a local and 11 if
you are a foreigner, the big grey stone slab welcomes you. Its heavy self
carries the names of each victim of the attack that occurred in March, 2015. I purposely chose not to photograph any evidence of the attacks, as the visit was cultural and your ability to visualise is better than some gory and unnecessary detailed pixels.
As you dive in under the archway that was replicated, be
prepared for a surprising maze, carefully designed, tasteful in its choices of
light and space for the many treasures it shelters. From sculptures to various
artifacts, but most importantly, through the art of mosaic. For a mere amateur,
the Bardo is simply awe inspiring, since the quality and variety of its pieces
are simply unfathomable.
The Tunisian culture and tradition is truly beautiful in
terms of wall sculpting and tile decorating and the ambiance of the museum
reflects on it.
Coincidently, this room is the one that surprised me the
most, by the intricate details on both walls and ceiling, with an immaculate
feeling. Yet, as you step inside one the side rooms attached to this cradle of
Art, you will see the aftermath of our era’s plague -Deep through the glass,
its shards of glass filled with hatred and senseless ideas.
It is the museum choice to keep the bullet holes there, as
and where they happened; the width of these holes can only move you, as your
mind, despite yourself, automatically starts to recreate the impossible.
Many criticise the museum for not replacing the glass
windows that covered the bronze statues in the room. But “A quoi bon?”, why
would you? Should we fool ourselves and provide another selfie spot, or should
we leave them, also for the victims families, as a way to acknowledge that it
happened?
One thing is sure: children are an endless well of surprises.
As you stroll by and before having time to make the decision
of showing or hiding this room, two very curious and energetic children had
already stepped in. Of course, one was even trying to put their fingers through
the holes, trying to make sense of the damaged glass. It is frightening, to
think that you willingly brought two souls to the world, seeing how it is
starting to spin, until one of them suddenly says:
“ Look Maman, some
“imbeciles” broke the glass and almost broke the art!”.
The Bardo is a beautiful museum, which is starting to feel
the deserters; it is a huge building, that shelters much artistic wealth and is
now in dire need for support.
Once again friends, we are in Tunis hoping to see you come
and visit, because it is safe enough for us to have our Buls here, it surely is
safe enough for you!
