Egypt – 10 months later

In August 2013, a crazy family decided to overcome their fear of the second revolution and worries concerning the state of emergency and curfew and focus on their excitement and commitment as they landed in Cairo, discovering the landscape, questioning the decision to leave the old Constantinople.

Some things are sadly just the same:

The town centre hasn’t changed. As we crossed the city for the first time, I recall the sheer disappointment, seeing all those skeletons of red brick building and litter sprawling all over the roads and roof tops; I remember seeing the chaos, poverty and the traffic and regretting leaving Istanbul but a glimpse of Khufu had given me hope. Living in the suburbs, you forget that sight, until the next confrontation. A few nights ago, as we wished farewell to colleagues moving on, I drove through the city: Town hasn’t changed a bit and it is still awfully filthy and punctuated by those same empty red buildings. This time, I saw the three pyramids in the evening sky, the moon showing right above them and in the opposite direction, the sun, bright orange, was setting behind some of the date palm trees on the distance. Peace again.

The situation for women hasn’t changed unfortunately and the harassment “(un)culture” is so engrained in some men that it will take much more than 10 months for mentalities to change... In August, the eve of our arrival, I recall seeing a video (because the media is all about making it as disgustingly real as possible) of a woman being assaulted on Tahrir as the second revolution was striking. Regrettably and coincidentally, a few days ago, a lady was assaulted on Tahrir at the inauguration of Sisi; the worst thing is that some men and fellow women find it normal, as men were happy! There are some groups and organisations working on awareness and raising respect towards women and they are the true hope for my Egyptian but also foreign fellow sisters.

Yet, a lot has changed – in how many countries do you witness the fall of a president and the appointment of a new one within the space of 10 months? For the better or the worse, time will tell and once again, we must wish the best to Egypt, instead of stepping back and patronise this country, from our expat’s safe haven.

We, as a family have changed. There is a true feeling of community here and we have met wonderful people from all horizons, who have made this year even more enjoyable! In addition, besides having developed a sheer hate against flies and insects, I personally have found an unexpected amount of peace in two paradoxical places: The desert and its eerie emptiness, where Eol rules and sculpts at will and the Red Sea, full of colours and life all around. I can never find a fair prose to explain how walking in the desert and diving can offer you a moment when the daily cacophony ends and allows you to channel your thoughts.

Madame Lucie has changed.  Given the monstrous reputation of Egyptian students, the one I was given before even meeting them, I opted for Machiavelli’s method, to be feared rather than loved. Perspective is the key word, as my start of the book is their end of a book, as my idea of acceptable is different from their idea of acceptable, as my idea of religion and need for guidance is different from theirs. It turns out the Egyptian students are just the same as anywhere else, plus a wonderful “répartie” and sense of humour.

More importantly, my international family has changed. Given our different background, Egypt has shaken some of our established traits and grown onto us. It has revealed some of the most incredible landscapes and mind opening moments and the best example is this true story:

Whilst going to town, an Estonian man takes up the mission to buy an Egyptian flag for his old man. In times of elections, the patriotic feel is strong and flags are sold at every street corner, even near our microcosm. As he reaches home to his family, he shows the flag to his son, who, without hesitations, seizes it and starts chanting: “baladi, baladi, balaaaadi....” -The Egyptian national anthem! 

For a second, the entire family stares at him in disbelief and pride, realising that we have all changed in Egypt, and thank the universe for leading us here and reveal to us what is hidden under the layer of dust of Egypt. A layer wrongly thickened by the media, a layer built on the looks of the city, its people and the recent history – but what lies underneath it, if you look past it, is humanly and aesthetically simply beautiful!